Crossing the dry Kidepo river

Lying in rugged, semi-arid valleys, this is Uganda’s most remote national park. Few undertake the pilgrimage to there but the spectacular beauty of this pristine wilderness impresses all that make it, writes Lambert B. Rusoke.

Pagak is an Acholi word that means uncertainty of making a return journey from a particular destination, or simply put, gone but unsure of coming back. And when one thinks of trekking to Kidepo National Valley Park, this Acholi word comes to mind; it’s a journey to Pagak. Located in Uganda’s remote north-eastern corner, some 700km from the capital Kampala and tucked between the borders of Sudan and Kenya, Kidepo Valley is most isolated yet with captivating scenery.

Getting there, our starting point was Gulu town and we had about six hours to drive. This simply means that from Kampala, it would take eleven hours on the road since Kampala-Gulu is almost five hours. The four possible routes are Kampala-Mbale-Moroto-Kidepo (792kms), Kampala-Sironko-Kotido-Kaabong-Kidepo (740kms), Kampala-Karuma-Lira-Kotido-Kidepo (705kms) and Kampala-Karuma-Gulu-Kitgum-Kidepo (571kms). By air, chartered aircrafts are available from Entebbe International Airport to the park headquarters.

The road trip isn’t as smooth though, since it is murram all the way and becomes impassable in rainy seasons. Even then, trekking through the Karimojong communities yields fears of ambush attacks from some hostile Karimojong. A mirage look at the manyatas (homesteads) on the mountainsides sends shivers down one’s spine.

Once there
Ours was a get-together trip to usher in the New Year and being about 80, the means of transport was a bus. Accommodation was available at Apoka Lodge and spacious and luxurious cottages were on offer, providing an expansive view across the plains of the park. We went with our own food, drinks and music for the night’s partying as we geared for a trek of the park the morning after.

When morning broke, we got a clearer view of the savanna landscape, which extends far beyond a gazetted area of 1,442kms. The park has a semi-arid climate with just one rainy season per year (April-September) and even then the rainfall is light. In these dry times, one gets to cross the dry Kidepo and Narus rivers, with the river beds filled with beach sand. Water is concentrated in the wetlands at such times so it is where most animals take refuge.

The park contains one of the most exciting fauna in the land with 80 species of mammal, 28 of which are restricted to only Kidepo and the Karamoja Region. Amongst these are such charismatic African animals as Bat-eared Fox, Carcal, Cheetah and Klipspringer. The park also has a very rich and diverse reptile fauna. Some of the carnivores here are lions, leopards, spotted hyena, black-backed jackal and the side-stripped jackal.

There are high chances of viewing tree climbing lions along Narus valley as one enters the Apoka Park Headquarter. One of the elephants here is actually domesticated and stays on the Apoka Logde compound. Nicknamed bull–bull, the elephant is friendly and seemingly never wants to head back to the wild.

We hiked on Lamoj Mountains just a few kilometres from the Park Headquarters. From Kidepo Valley, we also visited the Kanangorok Hot Springs, which are located only 11km from Kidepo river valley, some 5kms or so from the border of Sudan and Uganda.

The community in the park
The main tribe bordering the park is the Karimojong, who are cattle-keeping people and are adapting slowly to changes in their traditional way of life. And on special arrangement, a visit to their manyattas (homesteads) is possible and here, we saw their traditional stools, spears, beads, bows, knives and arrows. It can be a tiresome journey all through, but once one gets to the Kidepo Valley National Park, the moments spent therein are worth the distance. It is natural flora and fauna at its best.

Specs
Location: North-eastern Uganda, 700km from Kampala and tucked between the borders of Sudan and Kenya.
Accommodation: There are 16 self-contained chalets at Apoka Rest Camp. There is also a hostel comprising 14 bandas. The Kakine Campsite lies a short distance from Apoka. It has a long drop toilet and fresh drinking water and firewood will be brought to you.
Costs: Apoka Rest Camp rooms cost $75 per person per night with full board. Bandas cost $22 per night. The Kakine Campsite costs $5 per night.

What to look out for: The Flora and fauna, two campsites, hiking on Lamoj Mountains, a picnic site on the sand, cultural entertainers, and visiting the Karimajong manyattas (homesteads). The scenery of the Labwor hills about 55km to Kotido is breathtaking.